The only major town on Istria's wild east coast, Labin is something of a law unto itself. Sited on a 320-metre high peak, 3km from the sea, it is said to have been founded by Celts in the fourth century. They christened it 'Albona' or Alvona' ('town on a hill') and this ancient name is still in use.

A century later the Romans recorded the presence of unruly pirates. The local Matija Vlacic was a leading European reformer alongside Martin Luther. In recent history, Labin's miners revolted against Mussolini and declared an independent republic. Labin has always had attitude.

With a population of 10,000, it's an economic centre and the plain beneath the old town sprawls with a thriving residential and business community. Technically known as 'Podlabin' ('Under Labin'), this is where Mussolini built his two new towns to house the local mine

Two things make Rasa unique. First, this the youngest town in Istria. Built by Mussolini in 1936 to house local mine workers, it was designed by Gustavo Pulitzer-Fianali and can be considered as one of the world's finest examples of Modernist Functionalistic Architecture. It's still complete - not just the workers' houses, but the town square and the municipal buildings with the local cafe incorporated at street level. The Church of St Barbara, the patron saint of miners, is shaped like an upturned coal-cart, its tower recalling a miner's lamp. In complete contrast, Rasa's other claim to fame is its donkey sanctuary, Rezervat Liburna (052 857 706, 091 521 1232 mobile, www.rezervatliburna.hr). Here dedicated owner Ivica Perko is attempting to preserve local Mediterranean breeds, many of which are now virtually extinct. The group roams free for the most part, protected by a river that cuts through the middle. A modest ethnographic museum here is filled with interesting objects - not all of them donkey-related - and there is also a nature trail. The sanctuary is just south of Rasa on the way to Pula. You can see how grim conditions were by visiting the
reconstructed mine shaft at Labin's excellent museum.

As you ascend the steep, cobbled hill up to the old town you pass by the beautiful villas built to house the white-collar workers. Passing through the first city gate you enter the main square - still Titov trg -with its brightly- painted buildings and Venetian loggia. This is the town's social hub dominated by the landmark Velo cafe, restaurant and nightspot. The terrace packs in summer.

Labin has a vibrant arts scene and the majority of talent is home grown, artists preferring to stay here. As you continue uphill, through the second gate, and explore the old town you pass galleries, studios and workshops. Municipal Gradska Galerija Labin provides an agenda of contemporary exhibitions, opposite the Labin Museum. These, and other public spaces, are invariably commandeered for summer's annual Labin Art Republic (www.labin.hr) series of arts events staged in July and August. Initiated in 2003, the LAR stages live shows, exhibitions, and ad hoc street entertainment. The theme for 2006 was visual theatre, with companies from Spain and the UK. Studios open their doors and visitors are given rare access to private and public collections.

Don't miss the sculpture park, Mediterranean Sculpture Symposium (MKS), in nearby Dubrova. Look out for the large, green glass cube, due to become the visitors' centre. International residencies take place each year.Artists provide their contributions to a pathway being continuously added to as they leave their mark. Back to the old town, Setaliste San Marco is a terrace on the old city walls providing an unbroken vista out over the Kvarner Bay. Locals claim that the shallow depth of the sea here, only 80 metres, encourages growth of a specific plankton, and thus fine seafood. Walk to the top of the town for eastern Istria to be laid out before you. Sited on a sea cove 3km down the hill, is Labin's port of Rabac.


Labin City Art Gallery
Ulica 1. maja 5 (052 852 464).
Mediterranean Sculpture Symposium (MKS)
Dubrova (052 852 464).
National Museum of Labin
Ulica 1. maja 6 (052 852 477/www. rabac-labin.com)