For its size, Motovun has no shortage of places to drink. Top of the list is the excellent Caffe Bar Montona Gallery, whose panoramic views match anything in Dalmatia. Down in Pod Motovun are a number of establishments, including the down-to-earth Fakin. Everything changes at festival time, when any place purveying alcohol fills out for the whole week. The rest of the time, expect quiet drinks in a pretty, hilltop setting.
Caffe Bar Montona Gallery
Trgjosefa Ressela 2 (052 681 524). Open 8am-midnight daily.
Best venue for a drink in town, hands down. Run by the friendly local couple Claudio and Lela, this relaxed cafe is set between Motovun's two town gates, right on top of the hill, and with completely stunning panoramic views of the Mirna valley below. Try and get here for a drink at sunsets. Sought-after tables are lined up on the terrace outside, and there's a scattering of furniture inside for the winter. Morning coffee here is a must - you wish it did breakfast - and you want to try and get here early before the tourist coaches start pulling up.In the evenings it gets packed with locals and visitors staying at the nearby Hotel Kastel. Open all year round.
Fakin
Zadrugarska 8 (052 681 978). Open 8am- 11pm Mon-Sat. Closed 2wks Jan.
Wild at festival time, the Fakin attracts the friendly local biker fraternity thanks to owner Damir, whose pictures adorn the walls. In winter you might only hear the click of chess pieces, the clack of pool balls and the cluck of local chatter about the price of truffles.