Two venues dominate Motovun's dining scene: the traditional Pod Voltom, offering standard Istrian fare, and the more adventurous if pricier Barbacan. Both pack out completely during film festival time - make sure you make your reservation way in advance.


Barbacan
Barbacan 1 (0 52 681 791). Open
Summer 10.30am-3.30pm, 6-llpm daily.
Winter 10.30am-3.30pm daily.
No credit cards.
Recommended    Dutch-run    restaurant
renowned for using seasonal ingredients.
See below Truffles with everything.


Konoba Dolina
Gradinje 59/1, Livade (052 664 091). Open noon-lOpm Mon, Wed-Sun. No credit cards.
A short, tricky drive from Motovun (head into Livade, take a right at the only round­about, then five minutes via the left fork, it's on your left) but Dolina is worth it. A per­fect example of fantastic, simple local food in a simple, local place. It's so good, many Italians drive down for the night. It's not touristy or flash in any way - and all the better for it. It's also incredibly good value. For lOOkn, you can be very happily fed and watered. The secret is the quality of the unpretentious and fresh ingredients: huge plates of fresh, meaty porcini mushrooms served with olive oil; fuzi with truffles, squid with chips, cabbage salad, beans. The drinks are equally great: Istrian Favorit
beer on tap, bottles of local mistletoe and honey spirits, domestic wines, great coffee. Dolina gets busy with locals sat around wooden tables, repeat guests and chatter­ing eldery Italian ladies from the nearby spa. There's half-a-dozen tables outside too. If you lived here you'd visit once a week.


Pod Voltom
Setaliste VNazora (052 681 923). Open Swrnmernoon-llpm daily. Winter noon-llpm Mon, Tue, Thur-Sun. No credit cards.Under the Arch by the old city gate serves a selection of honest, regional fare, includ­ing truffles, and can always be relied upon to have a fire blazing in winter. Reasonable prices too. Pod Voltom is also known for its flavoured spirits, rakija, of such quality they are sold to other restaurants around Croatia, including the Masklin i lata