Firmly committed to quality tourism, Novigrad has taken significant steps in the last 12 months. First is the opening of the Hotel Nautica, a five-star hotel and marina. Sited on the far side of the harbour, it does nothing to detract from the gentle, old-world charm of the historic town centre. Secondly, Novigrad gained recognition from the International Dark Sky Association (IDA), based in the USA. Working closely with the nearby, world-ranking Visnjan Observatory, Novigrad is aware of the ongoing effects of light pollution. The town will switch off its entire public eco-lighting system for a couple of nights this season, so that visitors can fully enjoy Istria's spectacular night sky. And thirdly, the Museum Lapidarium, specifically built to house Roman remains, opened at the end of 2006.

Called Cittanova under the Venetians, Novigrad also contains a surprising number of decent bars, hotels and restaurants for a community of fewer than 3,000 people. The more modern part of town stretches less than a kilometre east, as far as the bus station and a small hotel complex. Between town and facilities, you can walk along the main road of Murve or the pleasant seaside promenade of Rivarella. Even in high season, tourists are light compared to nearby Porec, the hub for buses from Zagreb or Pula.

The Venetian-style campanile beside St Pelagius, a baroque 18th-century church built on the foundations of a medieval basilica, rises over the modest network of streets. Here in the main square, Veliki trg and the main street of Velika ulica, stands a Venetian loggia, containing the Town Hall. North of town at Karpinjan, near the marina, is the Rigo Palace, built in 1760. As well as a gallery, it has a display of old tombstones and Byzantine fragments.


Gallery Rigo
One of Istria's most important independent galleries has a fast-moving programme of contemporary exhibitions throughout the year. A highlight in 2007 (24 Aug-30 Sept) will be 'Salt Dress' by Alen Hranitelj. Currently one of Europe's most exciting theatrical costume designers, Hranitelj is best known for his recent metal dress that required a crane to place it on the model. He is designing a new dress, created for the Rigo, made entirely of salt, said to reflect the age-old relationship between man and the Mediterranean.
Velika ulica 5 (052 757 790/ www.galerija-rigo.hr). Open varies.


Museum Lapidarium
Istria's first purpose-built museum is a first-class example of successfully siting mod­ern architecture within the context of an old town. Lapidarium was built to house Roman architectural remains, dating from the first century AD, discovered in the local­ity. Superbly exhibited, this small museum sets a world-class standard in Istria.
Veliki trg 8A (052 726 582/www.muzej-lapidarium.hr). Open Summer 10am-noon, 5-10pm daily. Winter lOam-noon, 5-8 pm daily. Admission lOkn; 5kn cones; free under-14s. No credit cards


Visnjan Observatory
Istarska 5, Visnjan (052 449 212). Open by appointment. Famous for discovering more than 1,400 minor planets over the last decade, Visnjan is one of the world's most prolific astro­nomical discovery sites. They are current­ly constructing a new observatory nearby, called Tican, which will house a one-metre telescope. The Visnjan Observatory is also involved in educational projects, run by students and volunteers.