Pula has decent little bars but few in prominent locations. Local law forbids a city-centre bar opening after midnight, particularly open-air venues. PI4, Epidemija and Scandal Express are classic downtown bars the first-time visitor would never find. Towards Verudela, where Buducinova and Tomasinijeva meet, is a hub of spacious terrace venues. The best are Podroom and Cabahia.
Bunarina
This local fishermen's bar is sited on the jetty of Bunarina. In high season tables Cover every Square inch as customers watch the boats or wait for a ferry to Fratarsko island. It serves food in season too.
Verudela 9 (052 222 978). Open Summer 9am-midnight daily. Winter 9am-9pm daily.
Cabahia
Great spot for a summer evening, this, in the bar nexus haifway between town and Verudela. A light Latin American theme runs through the leafy front garden and jumble-sale back room bar - Cafe do Brasil sacks, a Che Guevara flag and Cocktail -although the beer is Slovenian Lasko.
Sirolina 4 (no phone). Open 10am-midnight Mon-Sat; noon-midnight Sun.
Caffe Uliks
The statue outside gives it away. Just over a Century ago James Joyce taught at a school in this very building by the Roman arch. He and his eloper are also honoured with a Joyce Cocktail (Jameson's, Martini Bianco and Krasokova pear) and a Nora of Bailey's, Bacardi and cream. Other Irish drinks include bottled Guinness and Kilkenny (and tasty Irish coffee) in this otherwise Standard bar set on a pleasant, pedestrianised Square.
Trg Portarata 1 (052 219 158). Open 6.30am-10pm daily.
Cvajner
Or to give it its official title, the Kunstkafe-Cvajner. Either way, it's an absolutely splendid bar for the main Square of a tourist-swamped historic Roman town centre. Part gallery, part junkshop, the Cvajner is bohemian in appearance but not gratuitously so. Mismatched furniture, sculptures and an old carriage are placed around a spacious, high-ceilinged interior where parts of an old wall are dated AD 1928. Bottles of Chimay and dark Lasko complement the Standard 40kn Cocktails, best partaken on the Forum terrace
Forum 2 (052 216 502). Open 8am-llpm daily.
Epidemija
The Union Pivo sign outside says 'Coco'. Ignore it. The beer is Lasko, the place is Epidemija and local media types have been meeting here in a fug of cigarette smoke since it opened in 2004. By the cathedral, beneath the Fortress, it's a Strange find but a populär one for those in the know
Kandlerova 12 (no phone). Open 6am-midnight Mon-Fri; 8am-midnight Sat, Sun.
Podroom
Candidate for best bar in Pula, the Podroom makes good use of its leafy garden with a stone waterfall, plonking a bar in the middle of it and seats all around. Inside is a bit of a mess - a picture of a woman with a Med egg, a sign saying 'Harley Davidson Motorcycle Club' - but a friendly, clubby vibe wins the day. Plenty of 40kn Cocktails too.
Buducinova 16 (no phone). Open 9am-lam daily.
P14
Jozo Curkovic's wonderful little alternative haunt at the far end of Flanaticka attracts an arty clientele for impromptu stand-up Performances and one-off events. Centrepieced by a snake-shaped bar table, decorated with mushrooms and a lit-up globe, P14 is an address like no other downtown bar. Dark Lasko on draught and plenty of Istrian spirits from the bar counter propped up by friendly reguläre.
Preradoviceva 14 (052 382 987). Open 5pm-midnight daily.
Scandal Express
A tiny, smoky dive where local bohemians meet, you'll find this place near the theatre at the Giardini end of Flanaticka. There's no room around the bar at all, so reguläre hug the corners by the entrance or, more usually, spill out on to the narrow street.
Ciscuttijeva 15 (052 212106). Open 7.30am-midnight Mon-Fri; 7.30am-2pm, 6pm-midnight Sat; 8am-2pm, 6pm-midnight Sun.