If Labin is strong on culture, Rabac provides summer fun. As you travel down spectacular hairpin bends towards Rabac Bay, the small town comes into view like something straight off the French Riviera. The steep hillside is crowded with brightly-painted houses - nearly all offering holiday apartments - and, at the bottom, is the holiday village of Rabac. Developed for mass tourism, the holiday village is currently up for sale and will be redeveloped into something more suitable for the modern day.
Seaside gentrification is already underway. The Hotel Neptune, now the Valamar Bellevue, has upped its status to four stars; the boutique Villa Annette opened in 2006. There are plenty of bars and cafes plus the Andrea disco. A slightly older clientele patronise the Tropic, a beach bar-club with live music.
Look out for the Rabac Summer Festival of electronic music on Giradella Beach (3-5 Aug; www.rabacsummerfestival.com), a biggie. In 2006, 8,000 came to enjoy John Digweed and Desyn Masiello.
Away from the beach fun, you can explore the nature trails, one leading to the Tears of St Lucia, a natural spring that is reputed to heal your eyes if you wash them with the water. You are also close to the ferry terminal at Brestova, for access to Cres and Losinj (see pp 108-109), and their popular sandy beaches.